Sausage is much better than politics...


Monday, April 23, 2007

Laws are like sausages. It's better not to see them being made.
Otto von Bismarck
German Prussian politician (1815 - 1898)

Not many people know this, but if I could be anything in the world I'd probably be a butcher. No, not some Fast Food Nation-type meat packer, but an old-school turn-of-the-century butcher of the Texas hill country variety. If you've seen my series of posts on my trip to Lockhart, TX, you'll totally understand. If you've actually eaten at one of Lockhart's famous BBQ temples, you'll probably want to join me.

Back in the day butchers used to prep and sell meat to the surrounding community (what a concept). As part of this service the German-descended butchers near Austin also prepared sausage and barbecue to sell alongside cuts of beef, pork and other meat products. This is where Lockhart's current crop of BBQ joints came from.

Somewhere in my dreams is "William's Specialty Meats", where I spend my days making sausage and barbecue and selling it to people like me who will give it a good home, cook it like it should be cooked, and eat it like it should be eaten.

Until that day comes, I'll have to make do with a little brown egg and a few attachments to my stand mixer. I've been meaning to make sausage for years (I actually bought the mixer because Kitchen Aid was running a "free food grinder" promotion). Heck, I've probably seen the sausage episode of Good Eats a dozen times.


For my first whack at sausage making, I decided to aim high and reproduce the best damn sausage I've ever had in my short but tasty life. I still remember biting into my hot link at Smitty's. It was just the right texture, with just the right seasoning. Delicious, but the recipe isn't exactly public knowledge.

A major breakthrough came when I found this article detailing some of the methods Smitty's uses to make their sausage. I found that they ground their meat very coarse, and used a 85% beef / 15% pork mixture. Sounded good to me.


So I chunked up 1 lb. of pork shoulder...


...and 5 lbs. of beef chuck. I also took Alton's advice and froze the critical bits of my food grinder to keep the meat cool during grinding.

As for seasoning, I developed a secret mixture of 7 aromatics, herbs and spices to flavor my creation. Ok, so it's not secret and I didn't create it. I happened to find a recipe for "Texas Hill Country" sausage in Smoke and Spice, the indispensable bible for the amateur barbecuer.

I didn't get any good shots of the grind process as I had my hands full and covered in meat goo. Perhaps this is the part Bismarck was talking about. In any case, the meat was ground and put back in the fridge to cool.

When stuffing time came, I readied my collagen casings and did the deed. Purists scoff at synthetic casings, but I decided to go ahead and use them. I figured it'd make my first time easier, and I could throw natural casings into the fray after I got my feet wet.


I'd love to say the stuffing process was uneventful, but stuffing the casing without getting too much air into the link is a bit of a challenge. I'd read that collagen casings are especially tough, but I burst 3 feet of unlinked sausage because I overfilled the tube. The collagen casings are durable, but not indestructible.


Here's the end result. Aren't they beautiful? The collagen casings are nearly transparent so you can get a full view of the sausagey goodness. Now I just need a good way to cook them.

I think I have a pretty good idea...

Stay tuned for cooking and the post-game show.

Texas Hill Country Sausage
Based on this recipe from Smoke and Spice
5 lbs. Beef Chuck
1 lb. Pork Shoulder (Boston Butt)
1 lg. Onion, grated and drained of excess liquid
6 cloves Garlic, finely minced
1 tablespoon Dried Sage
1 tablespoon Salt
1 tablespoon Pepper
1 tablespoon Red Pepper Flakes
1 teaspoon Cayenne Pepper
Sausage Casings

Cube beef and pork into 1 inch cubes. Mix thoroughly with seasonings and allow to chill in a refrigerator for several hours. Run mixture through a meat grinder on the coarsest setting (approx. 1/4" holes) and return to the refrigerator to chill.

Stuff the sausage into 1.25" diameter casings. Allow to sit overnight before cooking or freezing.

Makes approx. 24 sausages, approx. 8 points per sausage.

Note: 6 lbs. is a lot of sausage. You may want to half the recipe.

Update 4/23/07 - Oops, forgot the recipe!

10 Comments:

 Blogger LLA said...

Look at you - all ambitious and stuff...

And you are correct, they did turn out to be beautiful - can't wait for the cooking and the post-game wrap-up!

4/23/2007 4:28 PM

 Anonymous Sam said...

They do look really good! I too have seen the sausage episode of Good Eats about a dozen times...can't get enough of his show. Just about every recipe of his that I've tried has been really good.

Coincidentally, that picture of the grinder reminded me of this one Emeril Live segment...yeah, I know. Not sure why I was watching that, but I was. He was making sausage--or trying to--and it was like a bull in a china shop. I'm not sure he even ended up with an actual sausage, so he pulled out some pre-made ones from under the counter, saying something like "Thank God that segment's over." Kind of funny...

4/23/2007 8:57 PM

 Blogger Joannie said...

Excellent pictures! The one of the raw chunked pork is my favorite. How long did the whole process take -- unwrapping meat to finished links?

4/24/2007 8:50 AM

 Blogger Judy said...

I come from a family of butchers, though I personally have absolutely no experience in preparing sausage. My grandfather owned a butcher shop back in the 50's and 60's, and my dad worked as a butcher for a while. I've heard countless stories about how good my grandfather's sausage was, and his blend of spices that made it so. Maybe one day I will refer back to this post and attempt to carry on the family tradition. For now, I'm content to just read about it.

4/24/2007 11:41 AM

 Blogger William Conway said...

LLA - Thanks! They're like my children, with a face only a father could love.

Sam - Nice to hear that the Big E had issues too! It's really not that hard, but it does take a little practice.

Joannie - All told I spent about 4-5 hours prepping the food. But I was also taking my sweet time, taking pictures, running to the store to get garlic because I forgot to get it the night before...

Judy - Yes! That's totally what I'm talking about. I think I need to find a real butcher around here.

4/24/2007 11:53 AM

 Anonymous Anne said...

William,
Have you picked up Charcuterie by Michael Ruhlman yet? It seems like it would be right up your alley. I just got it but haven't had the time to really get into it yet.

4/24/2007 12:56 PM

 Anonymous Kristen said...

Very, very impressive!

4/24/2007 4:55 PM

 Blogger William Conway said...

Kristen - Thanks!

Chef Anne - I've only given it a superficial flip-through. It looks like a really good book and it's gotten great reviews. I'm scared to buy it, as it will no doubt inspire about a 1000 meat posts.

4/25/2007 5:30 PM

 Blogger Karen said...

William, I was going to suggest Ruhlman's book too, and saw that Anne had already done that.

Another good source is Bruce Aidells. He's written my favorite cookbooks dedicated to meat - The Complete Book of Pork and Compete Book of Sausages.

And kudos to you - the sausages look perfect!

I love my KA meat grinder, but not cleaning it.

4/26/2007 9:55 AM

 Blogger kickpleat said...

yum! as a kid i used to make sausages with my parents and loved the process. eating them, of course, was the best part. i'm envious!

4/26/2007 3:45 PM

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